Unlocking Fresh-Milled Einkorn: Double-Autolyse

Jules Little

Here at Arcane Cauldron, I'm passionate about coaxing the most magical flavors and textures from ancient grains, and einkorn holds a special place in my heart. This grain, with its whisper of history and unique character, demands a different kind of attention in the baking process. That's where autolyse comes in – a seemingly simple ritual that unlocks a world of potential.

The Power of Autolyse:

Think of autolyse as a quiet conversation between flour and water, a moment of patient waiting where unseen transformations occur. On a scientific level, it's about hydrating proteins and awakening enzymes. Glutenin and gliadin, those shy components of gluten, begin to unfurl and prepare to bond, even the more reserved gluten in einkorn. Meanwhile, amylases and proteases, the tiny alchemists within the grain, start their work, breaking down starches into sweetness and tenderizing the protein structure.

Why I Swear by Autolyse for Einkorn:

Baking with fresh milled einkorn is a different beast than working with modern wheats. I've learned that its higher thirst, delicate gluten, and the presence of bran and germ require a mindful approach. Autolyse has become an indispensable step in my einkorn bakes.

Taming the Thirst: Einkorn drinks deeply! Autolyse gives the flour ample time to fully absorb water, preventing a dry, crumbly outcome and allowing me to truly gauge the dough's needs.

Encouraging Einkorn's Gentle Strength: Einkorn's gluten is a whisper, not a roar. Autolyse coaxes out its inherent strength, leading to a more manageable dough and a surprisingly tender bake.

Harmonizing with the Whole Grain: Fresh milling means I embrace the entire grain, bran and all. Autolyse softens those bran edges, preventing them from tearing through the developing gluten network.

Whispers of Flavor: The quiet magic of autolyse deepens the naturally nutty and subtly sweet notes of einkorn, creating a more complex and enchanting flavor.

Less Muscle, More Magic: Autolyse reduces the need for aggressive mixing, which can easily lead to a gummy texture with einkorn. It allows the dough to come together more gracefully.

My Revelation: The Separate Autolyse Ritual for Bran & Germ:

Now, for a bit from my own experience. While standard autolyse improved my einkorn bakes, I felt there was another level to unlock. Observing how thirsty the bran and germ were compared to the finer flour, I began experimenting with autolysing them separately.

This simple shift has been transformative. The bran and germ, when given their own dedicated soak, become incredibly soft and integrate seamlessly into the dough later. It's like calming a wild spirit before introducing it to the rest of the mixture.

The Enchantments of Separate Autolyse for Einkorn:

Unlocking Even Hydration: The endosperm and the bran/germ have vastly different hydration needs. Treating them separately ensures each is perfectly quenched, leading to a dough that's balanced and a bake that's consistently beautiful.

Bran's Gentle Embrace: Fully hydrated bran is a friend, not a foe, to einkorn's delicate gluten. It integrates smoothly, adding its earthy notes without tearing the dough apart.

A Symphony of Flavors: Autolysing the components separately seems to coax out even more nuanced flavors. The endosperm develops its sweetness, while the bran and germ offer deeper, roasted undertones.

A Softer Touch, A Finer Result: This method has consistently yielded einkorn loaves and focaccias with a more tender crumb and a less dense texture – a holy grail for einkorn bakers.

The Ritual of Separate Autolyse at Arcane Cauldron:

The Separation: I carefully sift my freshly milled einkorn, weighing the finer flour and the coarser bran and germ.

Separate Soaks: The finer flour gets its measured water, and the bran and germ get their own, often a higher ratio.

Patient Waiting:

Method 1 (Standard): I let each rest for 30-60 minutes, allowing the magic to happen in tandem.

Method 2 (Delayed Bran & Germ): Alternatively, and this is a more recent enchantment I've been exploring, I autolyse the sifted flour for the standard 30-60 minutes. Meanwhile, the bran and germ steep in their water for a much longer period – sometimes up to a few hours. This extended soak seems to break down the bran even further and extract more intense flavors.

The Union:

Method 1 (Standard): I then gently bring the two hydrated components together before adding the starter and other ingredients.

Method 2 (Delayed Bran & Germ): With the extended bran and germ autolyse, I incorporate the starter and other ingredients into the sifted flour dough first. Then, during the shaping phase of the loaf or bake (for example, when laminating or performing final folds), I gently fold in the softened bran and germ mixture.

The Magic is in the Method:

Whether you embrace the standard autolyse or delve into the separate autolyse ritual, understanding the science behind it empowers you as a baker. For those of us working with the enchanting, yet sometimes temperamental, einkorn, these techniques are more than just steps in a recipe – they're keys to unlocking its full potential. In my kitchen, I've found that a little patience and a touch of scientific understanding can transform simple ingredients into something truly magical. So, experiment, observe, and let the ancient grain guide your hands. The secrets are there, waiting to be discovered.

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